If you have any problems you can contact Tim O’Brien at powerpackmotors@socal.rr.com or call at (818)888-9533.

Connecting the motor and controller should be pretty much self-explanatory, but there are a few facts the customer needs to be aware of:

Your controller is electronically current limited to 35 amps. Fusing between the batteries and controller should therefore be at least 35 amps and no higher than 40 amps. You will find that 40 amp fuses are the easiest to find (auto stereo suppliers are your best bet) and in fact most likely you already have a 40 amp fuse installed on your scooter or electric bike as stock. Either way it is very important to fuse the power feed from the batteries to the controller.

IMPORTANT! The keyed switch on the left-hand side* of the controller acts as a motor reversing switch when the unit is operating a neutrally timed motor such as the Kolmorgen motors. It will not properly reverse a motor such as the BMC (the Powerpack motor is made by BMC) that is manufactured with advanced timing. Attempting to reverse the rotation of a motor with advanced timing by using this switch could destroy the controller if throttle is applied at the same time (gentle throttling would not cause instant destruction). I always attempt to ship with this key in its proper position, but it is definitely worth while to double check before trying to operate the motor. The correct switch position on most controllers is the horizontal(9 O'clock- 3 O'clock) position. However on the newer controllers, which I have designated REV. style controllers, the correct switch position is vertical(12 O'clock- 6 O'clock). All the REV. controllers will have the REV. designation etched onto the back of the controller, at the tail end of the etched serial # information.

* this switch is on the left-hand side when one is looking at the side of the controller where the two key switches are located, with the mounting holes in the end caps of the controller housing lying flat on the ground (or lying flat on any horizontal surface).

The "phases" are the sets of 3 heavy gauge wires. One set of three from the motor (terminating with male 1/4" quick connects), another set of 3 from the controller (terminating with female 1/4" quick connects). Just connect the motor's phase wires to the controller's phase wires following the shrink tube color-coding. Motor phase Black to controller phase Black, Green to Green, Yellow to Yellow.

It's a good idea to pinch all the female phase connectors tight before making your connections in order to assure the best connection possible. Then use the quick ties (also included) to further insure that the phase connections are secure. It could be hazardous to the controller to lose a phase connection while the system is under load.

This is the enable switch for the controller. When it is in the off position the light goes off and the controller won't operate, but don't mistake this for a true power switch. Even when in the off (disabled) position, the controller itself is on and will produce a slow, steady drain on your batteries. As with all controllers you must have a main power switch in your system or the controller will run the batteries down to the point that they will no longer take a charge.

This is the keyed switch on the right-hand side* of the controller. It allows the controller's low voltage cutoff to be set to either of these two voltages. 19v serves as the low voltage cutoff for 24v operation, and 29v is the cutoff for 36v operation. The low voltage cutoff serves to prevent your batteries from over-draining, and it's a good idea to use this function when possible. Unfortunately there is no low voltage cutoff setting for 48v operation. When operating at 48v it will be pretty clear when power has dropped substantially that it's time to think about recharging. You never want to let your batteries resting voltage drop below 10.3v, and ideally you shouldn't regularly drain below a resting voltage of much below 11-11.5v or you will significantly reduce the number of recharge cycles you'll get before having to replace your batteries. In general the deeper you discharge, the fewer recharges you'll get.

Key switch positions: Red- 29v, Green-19v

* this switch is on the right-hand side when one is looking at the side of the controller where the two key switches are located, with the mounting holes in the end caps of the controller housing lying flat on the ground (or lying flat on any horizontal surface).

Standard connector for the typical 5k thumb throttle used for years on all Currie/Schwinn and Lashout scooters and bicycles. The controller can also be throttled with a Hall type throttle.

Some units will ship with a typical 2 position Molex connector which is compatible with the older style Currie brake inhibit connector (used with the brushless motors). Many units will ship with the stock 3 position brake inhibit connector provided by the manufacturer due to the fact that it is impossible to predict which connector will be appropriate for a given customer's system or whether a given customer will even have a brake inhibit switch as part of their existing hardware. However to make it as easy as possible for any customer to make use of the brake inhibit option all controllers will ship with a mating pair of 2 conductor Molex connectors and their contact pins unless some other arrangement is previously discussed with the customer It will be up to the customer whether or not to make use of this option.

NOTE- Should you choose to rig your own inhibit switch you only need to ignore the red wire and use the remaining two wires for the inhibit. Closing the circuit between those two wires will disable the controller until the circuit is again opened.

If you have any questions or problems you can contact Tim O'Brien at powerpackmotors@socal.rr.com or call at (818)888-9533.