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1) Remove three bolts holding the motor to the drive plate. Remove motor and set aside.
2) Disconnect the master link from your chain by sliding out the retaining clip with a small pick or screwdriver. (save this link, as you will use it in the final assembly) Remove chain.
3)Remove one link from the chain by carefully tapping out the appropriate
chain pin with a small punch and hammer. The picture below shows the original
length chain, (top) and the resulting chain length. (bottom) NOTE: A
"link" consists of 2 segments. (holes) The picture below shows exactly
which pin to drive out in order to remove a single link. NOTE: Try using
a vise as an "anvil" to aid in removing the pin. Place the chain on
top of the closed vise jaws, then open the jaws just wide enough to allow the
pin to be driven down between them.
4)Replace the chain around the rear sprocket. Using two master links and a
"1/2 link", as illustrated below, connect the chain ends. When the
chain ends are linked, the resulting chain will be longer than the original
chain by 1/2 link! (one hole) This additional length is necessary to accommodate
the increased pinion size.
6)Install the 19T pinion and its washers in exactly the same order as the original pinion. (steel, nylon, pinion with teeth nearest motor, nylon, steel) Install the retaining clip.
The final assembly should look like the picture below.
NOTE: If you have the proper equipment available, I recommend re-sizing the 3 motor mount holes in the motor face plate at this time. WARNING: Do not make the holes so large that the bolt heads can pass through! By enlarging these holes, you will be able to move the motor forward and backward slightly to adjust tension on the chain. (this may completely eliminate the need for the noisy chain adjusting block) If necessary you can still use the block, but it may be necessary to reposition it (or possibly flip it over) to obtain proper chain operation.
NOTE: You may or may NOT need the chain tensioner after installing the new pinion. You should remove it prior to re-installing the motor, and determine if it's needed after completing step 7 below.
7)Re-install the motor, and adjust the chain tension (see note above) so that about 1/8" of slack is available at the center point between the gears. Rotate the wheel and check that the slack remains throughout a complete revolution. If the chain tightens and loosens as it revolves, be sure that the 1/8" slack remains at its tightest point!
Recommended Limits of Operation: This gearing has been tested in the field and on the dynamometer, and provides approximately 3 MPH speed increase over stock gearing. However, the hill climbing ability and range of the Flyer will be somewhat reduced. Care should be taken to check motor temperature during early test runs with the new gearing! Avoid steep hills! (those over ~8% grade) Lighter riders may find this restriction unnecessary!
Be certain that tire pressure is at or near 40 PSI to avoid overloading the motor. Riders heavier than ~175 lbs should check for excessive motor temperature until you gain more experience with the new gearing.