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1) Disconnect the master link from your chain by sliding out the 
retaining clip with a small pick or screwdriver. (save this link, 
as you will use it in the final assembly) Remove chain.

2) Remove three bolts holding the motor to the drive plate. 
Remove motor.

3) Remove the retaining clip from the motor shaft, and lift off each
of the five parts illustrated below. Note the order in which these 
parts are removed.

3)Install the 19T or 17T pinion and its washers in exactly the same order as the original pinion. (steel, nylon, pinion with teeth nearest motor, nylon, steel) Install the retaining clip. The final assembly should look like the picture below.

NOTE: You may NOT need to alter the length of your chain under certain conditions. Sometimes older chains are stretched sufficiently to work with larger pinions. Before you go to step 4 below, skip ahead to step 6 and temporarily install the motor to see if lengthening is necessary.

4) To increase the length of the chain, it is first necessary to remove a link. Do this by carefully tapping out the appropriate chain pin with a small punch and hammer. The picture below shows the original length chain, (top) and the resulting chain length. (bottom) NOTE: A "link" consists of 2 segments. (holes) The picture below shows exactly which pin to drive out in order to remove a single link. NOTE: Try using a vise as an "anvil" to aid in removing the pin. Place the chain on top of the closed vise jaws, then open the jaws just wide enough to allow the pin to be driven down between them.

5)Replace the chain around the rear sprocket. Using two master links and a "1/2 link", as illustrated below, connect the chain ends. When the chain ends are linked, the resulting chain will be longer than the original chain by 1/2 link! (one hole) This additional length is necessary to accommodate the increased pinion size.

Optional: If you have the proper equipment available, I recommend re-sizing the 3 motor mount holes in the motor face plate at this time. WARNING: Do not make the holes so large that the bolt heads can pass through! By enlarging these holes, you will be able to move the motor forward and backward slightly to adjust tension on the chain. (this may completely eliminate the need for the noisy chain adjusting block) If necessary you can still use the block, but it may be necessary to reposition it (or possibly flip it over) to obtain proper chain operation.

6)Re-install the motor, and adjust the chain tension so that about 1/8" of slack is available at the center point between the sprockets. Rotate the wheel and check that the slack remains throughout a complete revolution. If the chain tightens and loosens as it revolves, be sure that the 1/8" slack remains at its tightest point!

Recommended Limits of Operation: This gearing has been tested in the field and on the dynamometer, and provides approximately 3 MPH (19T) or 1.5 MPH (17T) speed increase over stock gearing. However, the hill climbing ability and range of the scooter will be somewhat reduced. Care should be taken to check motor temperature during early test runs with the new gearing! Avoid steep hills! (those over ~8% grade) Lighter riders may find this restriction unnecessary!

Be certain that tire pressure is at or near 40 PSI to avoid overloading the motor. Riders heavier than ~175 lbs should check for excessive motor temperature until you gain more experience with the new gearing.

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