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36 Volt/Long Range Battery Upgrade Pan Installation
Please
read before attempting this procedure!
WARNING
The batteries utilized in
this mod can produce very large and dangerous currents if metallic objects such
as screwdrivers or wrenches contact the terminals accidentally! These currents can
cause serious burns and other personal or property damage!
Only an experienced
mechanic, familiar with high current battery circuits, should attempt to
assemble this kit. If you have the slightest concern regarding your ability to
handle this project, I recommend securing the services of such a professional to
aid in the assembly.
Remove all metal object
such as wrist watches and other jewelry before beginning work. Use insulated
tools to prevent accidental contact with exposed terminals or connectors. Eye
protection is required!

**Disclaimer:
The following 36 volt modification was undertaken
as an experiment. While providing the reader with details (below)
of my installation, I make NO claims as to its safely, reliability,
advisability, or efficacy! Obviously, your motor warranty will
be voided. If you decide to proceed with this modification, do so at your own
risk!
NOTE: This custom battery pan is sized to hold 3 12V-12A/hr
batteries
of
approximately the following size: 100x98x151mm
(3.98"x3.88"x5.95")
These are the same batteries commonly found in Currie USPD kits.
NOTE: This pan will also
accommodate 2 Hawker 13A/hr batteries for
24 volt long range applications. Battery orientation for this arrangement
is shown at the bottom of this page. Installation follows the same basic
steps.
Installation
1) Remove 8 bolts holding deck and fender. Lift off deck and
fender and set aside.
2) Stand batteries on end and carefully remove the 4
push-on terminals.
3) Remove batteries and wires from pan, then remove pan from
frame.
4) Identify the 8 cables/wires as shown below.
Wire and cable identification:
#1-Battery lead (negative, black)
#2-Battery lead (positive, red)
#3-Fuse holder (40A)
#4-Motor power input (coming
from motor)
#5-Battery power output
#6-Brake switch (shuts off motor while braking)
#7-Throttle output
#8-Throttle and brake input connector (coming
from motor)
5)
Lower 36 volt pan into frame. Being careful not to damage the insulation,
pull
cables #1, #2,
#5, #6, and #7 through the 3/4" holt at the
front of the
new battery pan. You can leave
the fuse holder (#3) outside the box, or do
the following: First, take out the fuse. You'll notice that the receptacle
consists
of two 1/4" female push-on connectors. You can remove them by sliding
a
tiny screwdriver or knife point down alongside them to release the spring tab.
They'll just fall out the bottom of the holder. To replace, just push back
in
place. You'll also have to cut or grind off the body of the holder, otherwise
it's too wide to squeeze between the batteries and the box.
NOTE: The mechanical brake cable should be routed along the left chassis
rail
and attached with wire ties.
5a) There are 3 versions of the 36V battery box.
The earliest version (1)
contains a power output hole in the left rear side of the pan. This hole
is located
on the right rear side of the version 2 pan. In the most recent
version (3)
this hole is located in the center-rear of the pan. Depending on which
version
you have, do the following:
1) Version 1: Feed #5,
#6, and #7
back out through hole in left rear
side of
box.
2) Version 2: Bring #5,
#6, and #7 to the rear (empty) area of the pan.
Feed #4 and #8
into the box through the hole in the right
side.
3) Version 3: Same as above,(2) but use the
hole in the center rear of pan.
6) Install a 3/4" rubber grommet
or plastic strain relief in both holes where the wires
pass through the pan. (the grommet can be installed by
cutting through one side.
This will allow the rubber "doughnut" to be opened and installed
around the wires)
6a) Cut and install a thin layer (1/16"-1/8") of
padding in the bottom of the new
battery pan to cushion the batteries. This material can be cork, felt, rubber,
or
other suitable soft material.
NOTE: The
batteries are to be installed on their sides to eliminate the possibility
of
terminals contacting the metal deck. The picture below illustrates how this will
be done. The forward battery's terminals are positioned toward the right side
of the frame facing rear. The second (center) battery's terminals are positioned
toward the left side of the frame facing forward. The rear
battery terminals
are
on the left side of the frame facing the rear.
Be sure you understand the proper positioning of the batteries before
attempting
to place them in the box. See below.

7) Connect the negative (black) battery lead (#1)
to the negative (black)
terminal of the front battery. Place the battery in the box as illustrated
below.
Connect a jumper between the positive terminal (red) of the front battery and
negative (black) terminal of the center battery. Connect a second jumper from
the positive (red) terminal of the center battery to the negative (black)
terminal
of the rear battery. Finally, connect the positive battery lead (#2)
to the positive
(red) terminal of the rear battery.
NOTE: Be sure cable #5 is NOT trapped under rear
battery! All cables should
travel in the space between the batteries and the left side of the pan.
See below for final positioning of batteries.
(battery layout using 3-12A/hr batteries)
8) Cut two wood spacer blocks and place in the front and rear of
pan to
wedge the batteries firmly in position. (see arrows above) I use
1/2" stock.
The front block is 1/4" x 3" and the rear is 2" x 3". There
should be a
tight fit between the batteries and installed deck.
9) Route the mechanical brake cable along the left side chassis.
For version
one (1) pans, connect the cables as shown below. For versions two (2) and
three (3) boxes, make these same connections inside the box. Note that #4
and #5 connect together, and #6
and #7 plug into #8.
10) Test for proper operation before installing deck and fender.
****For 24 volt
operation using
Hawker G13EP batteries.
***(Alternate layout using 2-13A/hr
Hawkers)
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